Viñátigo: the story of how Canary wine learned to trust itself

At a time when wine exists among labels, market-driven narratives, and increasing global standardization, the voice of Juan Jesús Méndez remains firm, uncomfortable, and necessary. His career, linked to our winery since 1990, has not only been key in the recovery of native Canary grape varieties, but also in shaping an independent way of thinking about what it means to make wine in a territory like the Canary Islands.

The interview published in La Vanguardia is not merely a journey through the evolution of the sector in the islands. Above all, it is a structural reflection: on the strategic mistakes of the past, the complexity of the present, and the decisions that will define the future of Canary wine. From an open critique of the appellation system to the defense of a model based on identity, research, and territorial coherence,

Méndez presents a discourse that goes beyond the local.

Alongside him, Jorge Méndez, representing a new generation, brings a technical and territorial perspective that connects tradition with contemporary knowledge. Together, they build a narrative that explains how the Canary Islands have moved, in just a few decades, from decline to becoming one of the most distinctive wine regions on the international stage.

A transformation that has not been accidental. As reflected in the winery’s own history, it is the result of decades of research, varietal recovery, and constant adaptation to a unique volcanic environment, where viticulture is not only difficult, but deeply tied to identity.

Below, we reproduce in full the interview published in La Vanguardia.

Marla González | La Vanguardia

13/04/2026

What was the Canary Islands like in your youth? What kind of wines were being made?

Juan Jesús Méndez: Honestly, very poor. We were going through a period of severe decline in the sector. After centuries of prosperity, with strong global recognition from the 16th century onwards, by the late 20th century winemaking techniques had become very lax. This was the result of a reduced domestic market, with undemanding consumers, where all production was sold in bulk. At that time, the market was entirely local, Canary wine had no recognition, and it was sold in low-end establishments.

You were one of the pioneers in showing interest in native grape varieties in the Canary Islands. How did that begin?

J.J.M.: From the 1990s onwards, a strong movement of interest in local wine emerged. Appellations of origin were created, quality criteria were established, and wineries began to modernize. However, other regions were taken as reference points; there was no interest in Canary varieties. To make “good wines,” one had to rely on internationally recognized grapes, mistakenly referred to as “improving varieties.”

Did you receive local support?

No. Our commitment was not heard; we were denied support. Neither the Regulatory Councils nor the Public Administrations of the islands backed us. Eventually, we secured support from the Central Government and were able to launch an R&D project with the participation of the Galician Viticulture and Enology Station (EVEGA), whose experience in recovering Galician varieties was of enormous help.

The first appellation was Tacoronte-Acentejo in 1992, but you were one of the promoters of the Islas Canarias appellation in 2011. Why create a generic DO when there were already several specific ones?

J.J.M.: At the beginning, we faced many obstacles. There were many reasons behind our fight for this DO, but essentially, the regional DOs do not respond to any differential viticultural or winemaking criteria; they were created based on administrative regions. Moreover, fragmentation weakens the sector when defending its interests before different administrations.

Today, much of the wine sector seeks to move away from labels. How do you assess the existence of so many DOs in such a small archipelago?

J.J.M.: It makes no sense. It was a very serious strategic mistake, born from the sector’s immaturity and administrative neglect, which has done nothing to correct it. Most DOs do not add value; instead, they impose extremely high costs that harm the sector. Some DOs cost more than 5 euros per bottle marketed under their umbrella, which is absolutely incomprehensible to consumers.

What actions could be taken from the islands to better position wines internationally?

J.J.M.: Better management by public administrations of programs with third countries, which are currently very slow and difficult to take advantage of. On the other hand, there should be targeted support for business- and market-based initiatives, abandoning the outdated “one-size-fits-all” model, which yields zero results despite consuming significant resources.

And wine guides?

J.J.M.: In general, they have helped us by showcasing the uniqueness of Canary wine to the world—something more wineries, regardless of size, should take advantage of. External positioning is essential to gaining recognition as a quality wine-producing region. That does not mean abandoning the domestic market. Wine tourism, for example, is another very interesting tool if done properly, but if it becomes overcrowded, it is counterproductive—it detracts rather than adds value.

Is generational renewal more difficult than in other regions due to the weight of tourism? What is the government’s stance?

J.J.M.: The issue of generational renewal is not related to tourism. The problem lies in the lack of work in viticulture. The plant material currently used on the islands is completely exhausted, with very low yields per hectare, making most crops economically unviable. Until this is resolved, the sector will continue losing vineyard area, as it will not be attractive to younger generations.

Jorge, at Viñátigo you are mainly responsible for viticulture. What challenges does it present in the Canary Islands?

Jorge Méndez: Viticulture in the Canary Islands faces challenges closely linked to its landscape and the volcanic nature of its soils. The islands’ immense diversity strongly conditions vine cultivation. The first and most determining factor is their insular condition, which implies isolation. The Canary Islands are also a living archipelago, in constant geological evolution, as demonstrated by recent volcanic eruptions. Added to this is extraordinary altitudinal diversity; we have vineyards reaching 1,700 meters above sea level—among the highest in Europe.

And there are more challenges?

Without a doubt. The influence of the trade winds presents significant sanitary challenges due to increased humidity, favoring disease development, which requires precise vineyard management. Volcanic soils also demand complex handling, making environmentally respectful agricultural techniques essential. Another key challenge is water availability and quality. In general, water conditions are not optimal for cultivation, limiting the development of new plantings. Finally, generational renewal remains one of the major challenges today.

Entrevista original publicada en La Vanguardía.