The Perspective of Sommelier Yuya Kondo: Tenerife, an Island Where the Atlantic, Mount Teide, and the Authenticity of Our Wines Come Together

The renowned Japanese sommelier Yuya Kondo, CBO and beverage director of the prestigious Ginza L’Écrin group, recently visited the island of Tenerife on a trip that marked his first experience in Spain. Journalist and creative director Ikumi Harada, a specialist in Spanish wine and gastronomy, accompanied the sommelier throughout this journey across the landscapes, wines, and culture of the Canary Islands, gathering his impressions in an interview conducted at the end of the trip.

Kondo, one of the most prominent young figures in Japanese sommellerie, oversees the beverage program and brand strategy of the L’Écrin Group, known for its iconic French restaurant “Ginza L’Écrin” and its presence across several gastronomic concepts in Tokyo. His trip to Tenerife offered him a direct encounter with a wine landscape very different from the major European and New World regions he had previously explored.

Tenerife: a unique geography that captivates from the very first moment

During his stay, Kondo highlighted the deep respect that the people of Tenerife show for their island, its products, and its traditions. As Harada recounts, this emotional connection is clearly reflected in the way wines are cultivated and produced, where the preservation of nature and local identity is essential.

For the sommelier, Tenerife offered an incomparable wine landscape: vineyards planted on extreme slopes, the direct influence of the ocean, and the imposing presence of Mount Teide shape a truly distinctive territory, even on a global scale. Compared to other regions he had previously visited—such as France, Italy, Belgium, the United States, or Australia—the island stood out for the exceptional interplay between mountain and sea, as well as the strength of its volcanic terroir.

Viñátigo: a commitment to native varieties and terroir

One of the most revealing moments of the trip was Kondo’s visit to Bodegas Viñátigo, where he was able to learn more about the project led by our founder and director Juan Jesús, regarded by Tim Atkin MW as a “legend of Canary Wine.”

Kondo was struck by the winery’s small production volume and by the deeply artisanal approach that defines its philosophy: protecting native varieties and faithfully expressing the personality of each vineyard. For him, the decision to prioritize terroir over volume or profitability was particularly noteworthy.

During the tasting, the sommelier highlighted the single-vineyard series, where the uniqueness of each monovarietal parcel is captured with precision. Even when working with the same Listán Blanco variety, Kondo observed clear differences between the various plots, describing this collection as one of the best ways to understand the diversity of Tenerife’s terroir.

Kondo noted that both the white and red wines display a pronounced minerality derived from the volcanic soils, enhanced by a saline nuance coming from maritime influence. This combination results in elegant, vibrant, and versatile wines—ideal, in his view, for pairing with Japanese cuisine, especially seafood and dishes prepared with olive oil.

For the sommelier, the Japanese market could find great appeal in the authenticity of the Canary Island varieties and the elegant, expressive style of the archipelago’s wines. However, he considers it essential to create more opportunities for consumers to discover their unique character.

An unforgettable gastronomic and human experience

During their visit, Harada and Kondo shared moments of cultural immersion—from traditional markets and local restaurants to a special meal at the home of Juan Jesús himself, who prepared a paella that pleasantly surprised the Japanese sommelier. As the journalist recounts, Kondo consistently praised the quality of Spanish cuisine throughout his stay.

Harada also highlights the sensitivity and precision of Kondo’s tasting notes, as well as his ability to combine respect for tradition with an innovative mindset. His role as CBO of the L’Écrin Group—which includes restaurants, bistros, wine shops, and consulting services—makes him an influential figure in the evolution of wine culture in Japan.

The interview by Ikumi Harada shows that the island of Tenerife left a deep impression on Yuya Kondo: its extreme geography, its viticultural heritage, and the hospitality of its people. For Viñátigo, encounters like this confirm the growing international interest in the island’s wines and in the unique varieties that define the identity of the archipelago.

Original article by Ikumi Harada on LOHASPAIN – Spain Wine & Food Association